Whether your preference is sauce-slathered ribs or dry-rubbed meats, there’s something for every carnivore.
Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Pappy’s Smokehouse (3106 Olive), that Memphis-style Midtown ’cue joint where the lines are perpetual, started a St. Louis movement. Though the names are different—Bogart’s Smokehouse in Soulard (1627 S. Ninth), Dalie’s Smokehouse in Valley Park (2951 Dougherty Ferry), Adam’s Smokehouse in Clifton Heights (2819 Watson)—the convivial spirit, slow-smoked ribs, and popular pulled pork remain the same.
Food & Wine named it the Best BBQ in Illinois—and soon it will have an outpost in Missouri, BEAST Butcher & Block in The Grove (4156 Manchester), where pitmaster David Sandusky will continue serving up such crowd-pleasers as wagyu brisket and Duroc pork steak. 20 S. Belt W., Belleville, Illinois.
Last fall, Tom Schmidt and Haley Riley opened a second location, in the former Mathew’s Kitchen space in St. Louis Hills. There you’ll find the same proven menu as the one at the Loop location, with dry-rub smoked wings, trashed ribs, and jalapeño-and-cheddar bologna. 6525 Delmar, 5625 Hampton.
There seems to be a theme here: All of these barbecue joints are expanding—and none faster than Sugarfire Smoke House. With six metro area locations, it has branched out well beyond St. Louis, opening five more spots, from Colorado to Indiana. As owner Mike Johnson noted late last year, when he announced plans toexpand, “There are so many great barbecuerestaurants here, and they all seem pretty busy.”
Rustic Ambience / Ethyl’s Smokehouse & Saloon
History isn’t on the menu here, but it hangs in the barbecue-scented air. After all, this building in O’Fallon, Missouri, has been the home of ’cue for nearly a century. What began as a roadhouse retains much of the same rural-rustic ambience, lavishly decorated with old road signs and memorabilia. It’s lively, friendly, and fun.
BBQ-MEETS-BURGER / Fire-n-Smoke Wood Fired Kitchen
When quibbling about what to order, simplify: Order all of it. The Feed Your Fire Burger combines pulled pork, turkey, brisket, and bacon, with a couple of wood-fired burger patties and sauce. It’s like an entire barbecue theme park on a bun.
Barbecue & Bullets / SharpShooterPit and Grill
A shooting range, a gun shop, and pork slabs—all under one roof. SharpShooter Pit and Grill serves smoked meats and baked beans to both card-carrying members of the NRA and folks looking for food rather than firepower.
Live Music / The Shaved Duck
At this South Side oasis of quaint and comfortable, fans gather as much for the food (notably the smothered fries and duck confit) as for the entertainment (Monday–Thursday evenings and Saturday afternoons). The restaurant’s modest size and acoustics make every concert feel intimate.
Praise of the heavenly tender brisket has not abated since Salt + Smoke opened on the Delmar Loop, three years ago. The restaurant’s second location will soon open on Hampton Avenue. Get ready, South City, to share in the brisket, bourbon, and beer.
Snoots & Tips / Smoki O’s
Snoots? Envision thick pork rinds. As for the tips, the meat slides right off the bone. Both are slathered in a sweet tomato-based sauce. Rich and flavorful, the snoots and tips embody Southern-style ’cue’s rural roots.
Catalyst of ’Cue / Pappy’s
The sweet, smoky saga of St. Louis barbecue splits between “BP/AP” (before and after Pappy’s). There were other, older local barbecue joints. Then Pappy’s brought the exquisite care necessary for legendary smoked meats. It’s positively alchemical. The brisket is luscious. Dry-rubbed ribs are a study in texture and taste. Even classic sides, such as slaw and sweet potato fries, define barbecue excellence. Other contenders for the city’s best ’cue have since arrived, but Pappy’s remains the joint that changed St. Louis.
Campin’ & ’Cue / Sawmill BBQ Restaurant
The rustic theme—wagon wheel chandeliers, corrugated-steel walls, ancient saw blades—fits right in beside the Cahokia RV Parque. Campers and non-campers alike can mosey in for sandwiches, baby back ribs, loaded barbecue nachos… On Fridays and Saturdays, a 1-pound pork steak and two sides costs just $11.99.
Perhaps no rack of ribs is as beloved—or finished with such dramatic flair—as the thick apricot-glazed ribs at Bogart’s. After experimenting with a brûlée torch and heat gun, owner Skip Steele discovered that a roofer’s torch created the perfect finish. He jokes that he visited “six roofing supply houses before someone took me seriously enough to sell me one.” Today, barbecue fans know that Steele’s ribs are no joke.
Grits, fried chicken, and other Southern specialties are fine, but this truck’s forte is ’cue. Smoked brisket, pulled pork, and turkey are enhanced by a mayo-based ’Bama sauce. Inventive sides—among them mac and cheese with white American and pepper cheese and a fried-potato salad—don’t hurt, either.
Mostrami STL Sandwich / Smokee Mo’s BBQ
The Mostrami STL is barbecue innovation: Brisket is brined and smoked over smoldering oak before being pastrami-ized and forked onto garlic bread with a slab of Swiss, slaw, and house-made mustard. It’s worth the trip to L.A.—that is, Lower Arnold—which currently requires no travel visa.
Whiskey Selection / The BBQ Saloon
Whiskey and barbecue pair like teenagers and sarcasm. At this corner restaurant in the CWE, sauce meets small batch with a staggering array of whiskeys: domestic, Irish, Scotch… Your best bet: Order the pulled pork and sample the distilled delights in whiskey flights.
Find the best spots in the region.
Few barbecue restaurants have received the kind of national exposure that 17th Street, in Murphysboro,Illinois, has. Owner Mike “The Legend” Mills is one of the winningest barbecue competitors ever.
The pork steak has traveled north to Hannibal, where the 1 ¼-inch hickory-smoked St. Louis staple is quickly becoming a favorite menu item in yet another Mississippi River town.
This little spot has grown to six locations across southeast Missouri, with the closest in Farmington. Order the trimmed dry-rubbed hickory-smoked back ribs.
After serving as an Army cook in WWII, Ewald Buchheit opened a barbecue restaurant in Perryville, Missouri. Three generations later, you can still get the original hickory-smoked BBQ on Bun sandwich for $3.24.
The cultural change is greater than the short drive down I-44 to Cuba, Missouri, might suggest, but the common language of barbecue is universal. The surprise star: brisket.
The real treat at this family-friendly joint east of Columbia, Missouri, is the barbecued mutton special. Although it’s not always on the menu, this mutton beats even that of the famed mutton houses of western Kentucky.
Big Carl’s B.B.Q.
At this family-owned treasure in Imperial, you’ll find smoked wings, pulled pork, and brisket, as well as such sides as cornbread casserole and deep-fried green beans with a ranch or roasted sweet red pepper sauce.
If you believe that barbecue should come from inexpensive, laid-back joints, then Two Dudes—as the name implies—in Warrenton is the place for you. Grab a pork sandwich and an unpretentious beer and forget the worries of the world.
Randy’s House of Bar-B-Que
Regionally diverse sauces, meats, and styles of barbecue are the focus at Randy’s, in Highland, Illinois. Pulled chicken, topped with your favorite style of sauce, with a side of baked beans is the go-to here.
T-ravs aren't the only St. Louis food tradition.
Whereas a pork chop may be as tough as a shingle, pork shoulder is tender. It can be sliced anywhere from ½ to 1 ½inches thick, making for a great value at some restaurants. Compared with ribs, there’s more meat—and fewer sticky fingers.
The tender 22-ounce pork steak comes with a light rub, but it may be anointed with any of five sauces.
Try the pork steak in a sandwich loaded with bacon and cilantro. Yes, it’s unexpected, but it’s very good.
With a name like Ms. Piggies’, you know there’s pork steak—and with a sauce that’s sweet-tart and just a little hot.
Order a thick, tender piece of swine with a side of onion rings.
Cheesy Pulled Pork Fries from The Stellar Hog
Who needs poutine when you have cheesy pulled pork fries? The pulled pork is already succulent, but when you throw in a cheese sauce, house beans, and barbecue sauce, it becomes a fork-and-finger festival.
Olive Drops from St. Louis BBQ and More
In case you’re wondering, the olive drops (deep-fried stuffed olives) don’t go in a martini, but they do go nicely with a beer.
Expertly cleaned, lovingly prepared—when chitlins are done right, they’re delectably chewy, a sort of muscular tubular pasta that complements the sauce. This place gets them exactly right: earthy, dense, delicious.
The local barbecue community has some family ties.
Terry Black, Super Smokers BBQ
The past decade has brought an undeniable boom of quality St. Louis barbecue, and none of it would have been possible without Ron Skinner and Terry Black, who started here in 1996. As the godfathers of the St. Louis barbecue scene, nearly every new spot isn’t just an extension of their vision for high-quality ribs and pulled pork; it also shows their commitment to hometown hospitality.
Al Hicks, Hicks Bar-B- Que Company
Before opening a place of his own in Belleville, Hicks competed on the Super Smokers BBQ team. The 16-ounce center-cut pork steak is a testament to the glory of the St. Louis staple.
Emerson & Steele, Dalie’s Smokehouse
Mike Emerson and Skip Steele reunited in Valley Park to bring their brand of pitmastery closer to adoring fans in the county. They churn out such sinfully indulgent items as a monumentally large platter of BBQ Nachos, a fresh riff on a Cuban, and the metro region’s best smoked pastrami.
Skip Steele, Bogart’s Smokehouse
An alumnus of both Super Smokers and Pappy’s, Skip Steele opened his Soulard spinoff as a logical extension, dreaming up new items like apricot-caramelized ribs and such killer sides as deviled egg potato salad.
Mike Emerson, Pappy’s Smokehouse
Much to the chagrin of evening diners, the co-founder of Pappy’s Smokehouse refused to hold over product until the next day. Today, the “When we’re out, we’re out” philosophy is a common mantra. The evangelist of St. Louis barbecue earned Pappy’s national acclaim, and the awards followed.
Frank Vinciguerra & Mike Ireland, Adam’s Smokehouse
These Pappy’s graduates serve up top-notch ribs, pulled pork, and turkey, as well as an otherworldly garlic-smoked salami that’s more than an extension of their alma mater.
Marianne Moore, Dierbergs School of Cooking
Super Smokers’ former director of catering left to take the same position at The Ritz Carlton–St. Louis, followed by The Westin and Four Seasons St. Louis. She eventually managed Dierbergs School of Cooking Culinary Event Center and now serves as creative director of the chain’s entire culinary program.
Smoke ’em if you got ’em.
Lee Gustin, Executive chef at Cork & Barrel, which uses The Big Green Egg
Nick Freije, Executive chef at Weber Grill Restaurant
Sugarfire Smoke House chef-partner Dave Molina explains their smoker, by the numbers.
1,000 lbs. of meat that each wood-burning Ole Hickory Model ELES smoker, with a dozen revolving racks, can cook per day
300 lbs. Angus beef brisket flats per day Cook Time: 11-13 hours
225 lbs. Boston butts per day Cook Time: 11-13 hours
210 lbs. baby back ribs per day (The rub consists of a house blend of salt, sugar, paprika, herbs, spices, and brown sugar.) Cook Time: 3-4 hours
110 lbs. turkey breast per day Cook Time: 3-4 hours
30 lbs. jalapeño cheddar sausage per day Cook Time: 1 hour
3 p.m. Sugarfire’s cooks decide how much to cook the next day.
6:30 p.m. Rubbed brisket and pork is loaded in smokers. The smokers are fired using equal parts hickory and cherry wood. A gas assist maintains the temperature at 225 degrees, “the sweet spot for low-and-slow cooking.”
10 p.m. More hickory and cherry wood are added, and the smokers are locked for the night.
5 a.m. The pit crew arrives and starts checking the meat’s temperature. (Once the desired internal temperature is reached, the meat is removed, wrapped in heat-resistant plastic wrap, and put in holding cabinets at 145 degrees.)
8:30 a.m. Ribs and turkey breast are fired.
10 a.m. Salmon, sausage, chicken, and specials are added.
10:15 a.m. Portobello caps, corn on the cob, artichokes, and other sides are added.
11 a.m. The restaurant opens. More ribs (and wood) added if necessary.
9:30–11 a.m. Respective meats are pulled at different times. Ancillary dishes and quick-cook items (portabella caps, artichokes, chicken, salmon, corn on the cob) are added and removed as needed.
Kansas City, Memphis, and St. Louis barbecue have distinct differences. But they can all be found around town.
In a play on Kansas City’s most revered sandwich, the Z-Man from Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que, Washington Avenue’s Bootleggin’ BBQ & Catering features a brisket sandwich topped with blue cheese, onion straws, and K.C.-style sauce. If you like your ribs falling off the bone, try Piggy’s BarBQ, in O’Fallon, Missouri; full racks are $14.99 on Fridays.
Memphis created mustardy slaws with the acidity, crunch, and flavor to complement smoked pork. Try a pork sandwich topped with slaw and slathered in sauce at Lil’ Mickey’s Memphis Barbeque, in St. Peters. Big Baby Q and Smokehouse, a takeout joint in Maryland Heights, serves Memphis-style barbecue with distinctive international accents: jerked tofu, a Korean sauce, and a dulce de leche raisin bread pudding.
Roper’s Ribs may be the city’s best-known spot for saucy St. Louis–style ribs and snoots. Doc’s Smokehouse, in Edwardsville, piles pulled pork, bacon, and sausage high on the Big Boar sandwich. It’s been said that St. Louis consumes more barbecue sauce than any other city, and the sauce at Dixon’s Smoke Company, in midtown, may just be the tastiest around.
Zucchini slices, pig ears, flaky turnovers, and more
My Wife’s Mistake Meat Loaf Sloppy Joe from Five Aces Bar-B-Ωue
Meatloaf fail, or meatloaf sandwich delight? It’s both. The city’s best Sloppy Joe comes with a hefty helping of dry rub–seasoned ground beef smothered in barbecue sauce. It’s sensationally spicy and satisfyingly sloppy.
Pig Ear from C&K BBQ
It’s not the first pork part you associate with a meal, but it’s worth a try—especially when covered in a famous house-made sauce—at this longtime St. Louis barbecue joint, which opened in North County in 1963.
Blackened Zucchini Tacos from Sister Cities Cajun and BBQ
Spice-crusted zucchini slices are blackened on a skillet, then topped with a corn–and–red onion salsa and folded into corn tortillas. Yes, it’s weird and wonderful, but it’s also delicious.
Pulled Pork Turnovers from Hendricks BBQ
Flaky golden turnovers are stuffed with pulled pork, smoked Gouda, and sweet onion marmalade. It’s like a meat-filled dessert—and even more delectable when dipped in the house pepper jelly.
Where to find great 'cue in the Lou
Edited by George Mahe, Written by Jenny Agnew, Bill Burge, Chris Hoel, Ann Lemons Pollack, Rose Maura Lorre, Dave Lowry, George Mahe, Scott Thomas, and Andrew Mark Veety
Years ago, St. Louis distinguished itself, culinarily speaking, with a scattering of Italian restaurants, and Tony’s was at the top of the proverbial hill. And although we had some notable barbecue joints—and even our namesake cut of spareribs—that genre was never, ever part of the landscape. Such conversations began with “Kansas City” and ended with “Memphis,” with no stops in between. Then, pit masters like Mike Mills and Terry Black began racking up ribbons and national Grand Champion awards at Memphis in May, and barbecue nation began smelling our smoke. Today, cravings for a Pappy’s dry-rubbed rib have supplanted yearnings for anybody’s veal Milanese, prompting our announcement that it’s now barbecue season in St. Louis, folks, all year long. We therefore present our favorite barbecue joints—the new, the old, the famous, the infamous—and tips for enjoying what for many typifies summer in St. Louis…the humidity has already received plenty of press. —George Mahe
The pit master at Bogart’s, Skip Steele, who has worked smoke pits from Memphis to New York to Las Vegas, is making the case for “pit master” to be on par with “chef.” Or maybe even “mad genius,” to judge by the ’cue-linary wizardry he’s conjured since last February on an otherwise unassuming Soulard street corner. He smokes prime rib—repeat, he smokes prime rib—rendering a flavor and mouthfeel that are somehow rich and delicate all at once. As for your more quotidian rib slabs, why, those are finished off with an apricot-imbued glaze hit with a roofer’s torch. The baked beans are homemade and pit-smoked as well, and the chicken wings are a singular indulgence that the master himself doles out to customers waiting in the (fast-moving) ’cue-queue; they’re not on the menu (yet), so Steele passes them out gratis, one more reason why he’s made so many friends, and why his joint is tops in town. 1627 S. Ninth, 314-621-3107, bogartssmokehouse.com.
St. Louis: Known for the Arch, the Cardinals, Then Maybe...
New York once had the Soup Nazi, Chicago still has The Wieners Circle, and we’ve got Pappy’s Smokehouse—that hallowed eatery, exalted by locals and foreigners with equal fanfare, where standing in line has become an integral part of the experience. We’d maybe even say that all of that waiting makes the customer’s eventual spoils taste a little bit better—but could these ribs really taste any better than they already do? 3106 Olive, 314-535-4340, pappyssmokehouse.com
When the former duck-heavy eatery turned to barbecue and chili in early 2009, we weren’t sure what to think. On the basis of a midweek visit, though, it’s clear that we’re not the only ones smiling as the city has embraced this reborn restaurant, thanks to standards like pulled pork and ribs, as well as nonstandards like smoked meatloaf and a devilishly addicting concoction called brisket dip (think buffalo chicken dip with brisket and barbecue sauce in place of chicken and hot sauce). 2900 Virginia, 314-776-1407, theshavedduck.com.
The history of barbecue in America would be hard to write without families like the Dicksons, who own and run Mom Mae’s in Florissant. As you tuck into a plate of massive pork ribs—served with a sweet barbecue sauce over slices of white bread—do so in view of the family tree on the restaurant’s wall and share in their story, a tale punctuated by special spice rubs tempered by the slow smoking of wood. 3807 Vaile, 314-837-4111.
BBQ so Hypnotic You'll See Purple Dinosaurs
What makes Barney’s great is what Barney’s is not. It is not open year-round, only during the summer months between Memorial Day and Labor Day, so a visit feels like as much of a dog-day tradition as fireworks or Fair St. Louis. Barney’s does not serve your typical fall-off-the-bone, slathered-in-sauce ribs. Instead, they’re toothsomely tough, cooked over homemade charcoal and sided with a Carolina-cider-style jus. But that doesn’t really matter, because you’re not going to Barney’s for ribs. You’re there for the birds, chicken and turkey, smoked better here than just about anywhere else in the state, and that pumpkin cake, the best out-of-season dessert you’ll find this season. 16011 Manchester, 636-227-2300, barneysbbq.com.
As you enter the 10-seat takeout storefront, a thick plume of hickory smoke clairvoyantly signals you to abandon any other options and simply succumb to a tasty slab of the namesake dish at Roper’s. But as good as the ribs are, it’s the infectious smile of owner Denise Roper that wins you over from her perch in the window as her husband, Carl, tends a smoker that’s garnered a list of awards as long as a slab of spares. 6929 W. Florissant, 314-381-6200, ropersribs.com.
From the 'Cue Come Legends
The trophies and memorabilia lining the walls of the Super Smokers rib shack attest to Terry Black’s kitchen prowess. The pit master has won some of the most prestigious barbecue cook-offs in the U.S., and what’s more, he’s the godfather of our burg’s burgeoning barbecue scene (Mike Emerson of Pappy’s Smokehouse is a former employee; Bogart’s pit master Skip Steele, a former partner). Super Smokers’ mainstay is the slow-smoked ribs, legendary bones that don’t need any sauce—but you might try a taste of the seven varieties Black makes available at each table, just to see how complex something so simple can become. 601 Stockell, Eureka, 636-938-9742; 7409 Highway N, Dardenne Prairie, 636-614-1183; supersmokers.com.
The Home of Regal Ribs
They call Mike Mills “The Legend” and “The King of Swine” because he’s won three Grand Champion awards at the Memphis in May’s World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest; he’s a partner in Danny Meyer’s Blue Smoke in NYC (it’s Mills’ sauce on the tables); Bon Appétit dubbed his ribs the best in the U.S. Now will you make the drive to see what the all the hubbub‘s about? 1711 W. Highway 50, O’Fallon, Ill., 618-622-1717, 17thstreetbarbecue.com.
A Place Worth Getting Lost For
Lil’ Mickey’s sits deep in St. Charles County, confusingly tucked a few blocks west of its nearest exit (Cave Springs Road). Get off there, and be on the lookout for the old-school hacienda-style Taco Bell turned Memphis barbecue mecca. Its barbecue shoulder sandwiches (pulled or chopped), topped with tangy slaw and the perfect sweet—but not too sweet—Memphis-style sauce, are the best you’ll get without a much longer drive. 1020 Cave Springs Blvd., St. Peters, 636-922-4227, lilmickeysbbq.com.
Let's Not Be Snooty About It
What bacon is for pretentious “foodies,” snoot is for the serious gourmet. It’s salty, crunchy-crispy; the aroma alone is seductive. Yes, the potential gross-out factor’s significant—it’s pig nose, after all. But sliced into thin chunks and deep-fried to a rich mahogany, layered atop white bread, with the Shack’s marvelous peppery-sweet barbecue sauce on top and on the side for dipping, a mound of collards and mac salad keeping it company, it’s a splendid, decidedly non-snooty indulgence. 8642 Natural Bridge, 314-427-1777, ribshackstl.com.
We’ll wager the sliced-brisket and pulled-pork Boarish Steer sandwich pushes the needle above 8 ounces—even before the grilled onions, pickles, and squirt of spicy sauce. Opt for the homemade redskin potato salad and classic coleslaw, and get that leviathan cut in half or look around for a second set of hands. At $7.99, it’s the perfect splitter. 1620 Highway Z, Pevely, 636-475-3400, bbqonmain.com.
STL vs. KC BBQ ribs
“Comparing St. Louis barbecue to Kansas City’s is like comparing the American League to the National: The former had the limelight and now is a distant second. The same is true for barbecue. Now, there’s no question whose rib reigns supreme: Give the west-staters one taste of Pappy’s slow-smoked, mahogany-crusted porkaliciousness—crunchy on the outside, yet yielding—and they’ll realize they’ve been eating second-rate bones. Keep trying, K.C., but we’re still not sure you’re ready for the majors." —Hometowner Jeff Lehman, who eats out so often, he’s been dubbed the “patron saint of St. Louis dining.”
“I have enormous respect for St. Louis barbecue. I always cut my spareribs St. Louis–style, like that guy from St. Louis who learned it from that gal in Kansas City who was too humble to take credit for it. And although St. Louis has some ribs I like, K.C. has more ribs I like. In fact, K.C. leads the world in per capita barbecue rib consumption. In my opinion, ribs are best dry, not drowned in sauce. Sauced ribs make you wonder what evils the cook is covering up. No wonder St. Louis leads the world in per capita consumption of barbecue sauce!” —Ardie Davis, a founder of the Kansas City Barbeque Society (KCBS), has written several books on ’cue. The most recent, America’s Best Ribs, came out May 1.
Otis Walker, co-owner of Smoki O’s Bar-B-Que (1545 N. Broadway, 314-621-8180), wears an Africa-shaped gold pendant around his neck. “My roots,” he calls it, referring not just to the continent, but also to the gold and stones themselves. The gold comes from a nugget he inherited from his mother, Minnie Merle Walker, the original “meat master,” who also passed down her barbecue recipes and knowledge, and the four stones signify his family—himself; his wife and business partner, Earline; and their children, Rachel and Christopher, who work in the restaurant. Ultimately, Otis would like to add three more stones to the pendant, one for each grandchild.
St. Louis–style barbecue is the main attraction at Smoki O’s, but Otis and Earline are the stars. “Our menu memorializes our family,” says Earline, whose mother, Florence, used to carry copies of the restaurant’s menu in her purse, passing them out to strangers.
In its original incarnation, Smoki O’s was a stall at Soulard Farmers Market. Thanks to increased customer demand, Otis and Earline were able to buy a blighted property in north St. Louis in 1999 and rehab the space. July 12 marks the restaurant’s 15th anniversary, a milestone that holds particular significance for the family due to ongoing health problems. Suffering from polycystic kidney disease, the hereditary disease that killed his father, Otis received a kidney transplant last October. He’s also had heart valve–replacement surgery. Add Earline’s recent back surgery, and it’s understandable why Smoki O’s closed for nearly three months this year; it would be even more understandable for the Walkers to move on to something else. But as scheduled, the restaurant reopened on March 15, with well-wishing and hungry customers at the door.
The local barbecue community appears to be even tighter-knit than the larger restaurant scene. Otis considers Mike Emerson and Skip Steele friends, noting, “What we do here is, we compete against ourselves. I don’t compete against other houses.” Indeed, true connoisseurs would distinguish between Memphis-style ’cue served at Pappy’s and Bogart’s—with their smokers and rubs—and the St. Louis–style at Smoki O’s, where smokers take a back seat to the grill. Otis says what defines his barbecue as St. Louis–style are the cuts of meat (rib tips, pork steaks, and snoot), how they’re prepared (labor-intensive grilling that requires “handwork”), and the unusual sides offered by Earline.
Otis could write a dissertation on the subect of barbecue, and one could spend an afternoon listening to his stories. He’ll have plenty more to share after attending Danny Meyer’s annual Big Apple Barbecue Block Party this month in New York. Otis won’t cook this year as he continues to heal from his transplant, but he isn’t slowing down and remains optimistic about his future. “I love a challenge,” he says. “It’s a challenge for me to get up in the morning. If you’re able to get up in the morning and go to work without pain and sickness, to go outside in the fresh air, that’s something. Take that.” —J.A.
At Clinton Hill Golf Course, the ’cue is named after regulars: Tay-Tay’s Grilled Chicken Breast Sammich, Brick Layer Bob’s Footlong Grilled Sausage… And they say Uncle Ken’s Best Tastin’ Unbelievably BIG Pork Steak weighs at least 2 pounds. We’ve seen it, and we believe. Big Mama’s BBQ at Clinton Hill, 3700 Old Collinsville, Swansea, Ill., 618-277-3724, bigmamasbbq.com.
If you let the signboards dissuade you, you’ll miss out on Prince Carter’s ribs, saucy chicken wings, and smoky links. Kids already know to go for Blue Bunny ice cream, plus candy and chips. And inside is the best sign of all: “Free bike repair for kids 12 and under, Sat 9 to noon.” Says Carter, “It’s my small way of giving back.” 1951 Hebert, 314-932-9700.
BBQ Expert Scott Thomas on What Else to Grill on the Grill
The item receiving a lot of local attention is, believe it or not, romaine lettuce, cut in half and grilled just long enough to give it a char. I was ridiculed mightily the first time I tried it, and then came the raves. The lettuce has a surprising sweetness that’s brought out by grilling.
Add in some garlic and gratings of hard Romano cheese (or even a Caesar dressing), and what at first sounds silly will make perfect sense.
Whether you make it on a pizza stone with fresh pizza dough or with a premade crust put right over the heat, pizza is best grilled. Set up a toppings bar next to the grill with uncooked, personal pizza crusts for a great twist on the traditional backyard barbecue.
Crostini means “little toasts” in Italian, and while using a grill to toast bread might seem like overkill, it adds a certain unexpected-but-welcome smokiness. Top with minced garlic, your favorite herb, and some creamy Havarti cheese. The results are magical—far better than conventional preparations.
Smoked, Stuffed Yellow Bell Peppers
These make an excellent side or appetizer. Halve yellow peppers and stuff them with cream cheese, grape tomatoes, and pepperoni. Smoke the pepper boats for an hour, then layer on sliced Monterey Jack cheese and serve after the cheese finishes melting on the grill.
What’s better than peaches with hot buttered rum over ice cream? Grilled peaches served the same way. Searing the peaches and caramelizing the sugars takes the fruit’s naturally sweet flavor to a level that can’t be achieved by just warming it in an oven.
Detailed, step-by-step instructions can be found on Thomas’ website, grillinfools.com.
The rib tip might be the insider’s secret of St. Louis barbecue. It’s a people’s cut, seldom found at tidy mainstream ’cue houses. Tips are the result of trimming pork ribs to make the so-called St. Louis rib, taking off the top and bottom to tidy them up. They’re structured on meat and gristle, with a little bone here and there. As a result, they’re moist and succulent. Yes, they’re finger food, but so are ribs. Unlike ribs, though, they almost never dry out. I once saw them piled on top of French fries instead of white bread. That bread, soaking up the sauce, is irresistible to some (including me). My younger child was predicted to emerge looking like a rib tip because of the quantities I downed from Papa GK’s years ago. The Norwegian branch of my family was in town recently, and I offered them some real St. Louis barbecue: Rib tips beat pork steaks hands-down. Tips are the top of the food chain. —A.L.P
Two experts blow some smoke.
Scott Thomas (professional backyard griller) vs. Mike Emerson (seasoned barbecue professional)
ST: Unless you’re using a Kamado-style grill that requires lump or want the slightly higher temps, save the money and go with briquettes. The taste difference is nonexistent. I stock up every Memorial Day and Labor Day at home-improvement stores.
ME: For smoking, I like briquettes. The
uniformity allows for a more controllable temperature. For grilling, I like lump. Grilling requires hot, short cooks.
I get a hotter fire with lump.
ST: It’s hard to make a sauce that is a complement to the meat. The sauce is usually the main attraction and the meat a sideshow, when it should be the other way around. A rub can help accentuate the flavors of the meat while not overpowering it. Ninety percent of the time I prefer a good, well-balanced rub.
ME: My rubs are very herbal and don’t change much during the cooking process, so I know exactly how my finished product will taste. Barbecue sauce will have more variations in flavor.
ST: If I’m hitting the meat with a barbecue sauce, I use hickory almost exclusively so the smoke flavor stands up to the sauce, as hickory is more robust than most fruitwoods. If I’m going with a rub—which I do most of the time—then I’ll go with a fruitwood for a subtler smoke flavor, peach and pear being my favorites.
ME: It’s pretty well-known that I’m a fruitwood guy. The milder smoke allows more of the rub and meat flavor to step to the front. Hardwoods, like hickory, create a different profile—not a bad one, just more smoke/wood dominant.
Baby back ribs or spareribs?
ST: The spares are more uniform and make for better competition ribs, since presentation is one of the judging criteria, but I love those little meaty baby back ribs. If I’m cooking for a big crowd, then I go with spares based on cost. If it’s for myself, though, I’ll take the BBRs every single time.
ME: Baby backs are a little meatier and more forgiving, so they’ll take a longer cook without drying out. Spares will get that “fall off the bone” texture that some people like. I like my rib to have a little more integrity, or “chew.”
The five best BBQ side dishes in town
It’s been almost four years since Mike Emerson restored our faith in the sweet-potato fry, and to this day, Pappy’s remains the gold standard for the dish in St. Louis. A dusting of salt and sugar complement but never overshadow thin shards of sweet potato, best enjoyed four or five at a time. Pappy’s Smokehouse, 3106 Olive, 314-535-4340, pappyssmokehouse.com.
Long the dominion of potluck dinners and fundraiser cookbooks, corn pudding gets new life from BBQ ASAP’s Mary Randall, who turns out a light and airy side that captures the spirit of soufflé in the form of a sweet and savory casserole. BBQ ASAP, 15581 Manchester, 636-256-1908, bbqasap.com.
Pardon the hyperbole, but the fried biscuits at Boodles BBQ should be required eating for all St. Louis barbecue hounds. Rip ’em open and top ’em with sauce—or better yet, honey. These little hand grenades of flavor leave us asking, “Um, more, please?” Boodles BBQ, 10024 Gravois, 314-631-0000, boodlesbbq.com.
Rumor has it that the pit beans at Bogart’s start life at the bottom of the smoker, slowly absorbing the smoky essence and juices of the briskets barbecuing above. Boston and Kansas City, you can keep your beans; we’ve found an example worthy of our own namesake. Bogart’s Smokehouse, 1627 S. Ninth, 314-621-3107, bogartssmokehouse.com.
Sour pickles, a salty and golden crust dipped in sweet ranch dressing—what’s not to love about deep-fried pickles? Stumpy’s gets a nod for eschewing pickle chips in favor of hand-dipping dill spears into its own Southern-inspired batter before frying, making for a seriously tasty and unusual barbecue accoutrement. Stumpy’s House of Bar-B-Que, 620 Jungermann, St. Peters, 636-441-7222, stumpyshouseofbbq.com.
This grill does it all
Whether you prefer a New York strip steak seared over a rocket-hot grill or a slab of baby backs cooked low and slow, this grill’s got you covered. Fairly new on the market, the compact Akorn Kamado Kooker from Char-Griller maintains a steady heat (high or low), due to two cooking vents and its insulated, ceramic-wall construction. The egg-shaped convective cooker has a cast-iron cooking grate, a built-in temperature gauge, and a pair of metal fold-down shelves, plus a secondary grate and an optional Smokin’ Stone for indirect cooking. Even the wheels (and locking caster) are well-made. This grill is serious competition for traditional Kamado-style cookers, at a third of the price. $299. Lowe’s, multiple locations, 800-445-6937, lowes.com.
Our favorite regional BBQ sauces available at area grocery stores
Super Smokers BBQ St. Louis Style Sweet & Mild Barbecue Sauce
It’s molasses-thick, smoky, the color of peppered cinnamon. Perfectly balanced between savory and sweet, it graciously introduces the flavor of pork to your palate. A hint: It’s even better with chicken.
Bandana’s Southern Style Original Bar-B-Q Sauce
The original tastes like hard cider mixed with mustard, brown sugar, vinegar, and hickory-smoked love. It’s a classic, K.C.–style sauce—the texture silky, its perfume perfectly matched to slow-cooked meats. It makes a sublime sauce for dipping.
Sunday afternoon. You. Mike Shannon. Both popping a cold, frosty one. Him at the mic; you, grillside, with pork steaks and a bottle of sweet, grainy, peppery Maull’s. The essence of St. Louis summer barbecue. Heh, heh, heh.
It’s local barbecue’s bad boy, with a restrained sweetness and slightly spicy kick, along with a lingering, delicious heat. The texture’s jammy, the aroma smoky—this is a sauce to make kissing a pig a delicious delight. —D.L.
This refreshing cocktail has just enough tartness to balance a sweet barbecue sauce. The gin adds a floral component that’s complemented by berry notes.
• ¼ ounce crème de cassis
Muddle one blackberry and two sage leaves with agave syrup. Add other ingredients and shake. Strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with fresh blackberries.
The peaty smoke from an Islay Scotch and aged tequila is bold enough to complement a smoky rub. The cocktail contains just a touch of sweetness to make it easy for drinking.
Scotch (or equivalent Islay Scotch)
• 1 ounce Chinaco Añejo tequila
• 1 ounce Four Roses Single Barrel
Stir and strain. Add a lemon twist.
—Adam Frager, Blood & Sand
Popular and readily available, this beer doesn’t try to muscle its way in front of the barbecue; it merely balances barbecue sauce’s power with its crisp, clean, malty taste.
It’s a fantastic barbecue beer, smoky in its own right. The roastiness of a porter helps cut through some of the sweetness of a St. Louis–style barbecue sauce. —Mike Sweeney, STL Hops, stlhops.com
High-octane zinfandel often gets the nod here, but I disagree. A better choice is a lighter-profile wine, like the 2009 Château de la Terrière Beaujolais-Villages, ripe and jammy with tastes of wild cherries and berry fruits and notes of black pepper, cured meats, and herbes de Provence. Its soft tannin profile and lower alcohol content make it especially barbecue-friendly. $19.49. 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar, 33wine.com.
My choice for the “right” barbecue wine is the 2009 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese from the Mosel Valley, with a taste of ripe green apples, peaches, and pears, and a lime Jolly Rancher and warm honeysuckle finish. The combination of sweetness, lower alcohol, and low service temperature (serve cold, especially if it’s hot outside) makes barbecue better, if not memorable. $28.99. 33 Wine Shop & Tasting Bar. —Chris Hoel, SLM’s “Liquid Assets” columnist
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