Dear Jerry: I’m writing in that hopes you can help us with a problem with the gutters on our older Cape Cod-style house. Since the installation of a new roof (tear off) and gutters, we’ve had a problem with water spilling out of one area of the gutters during a hard rain.

This part of the gutter is regularly cleared so there isn’t blockage. We’re uncertain if the pitch of the gutter is the problem or if we need a wider gutter in this area. We’ve had difficulty finding a company that has experience using wider gutters.

We’d welcome any suggestions about whom we might contact to assist with this problem.

Answer: There used to be quite an art to installing gutters and their related downspouts. The book Traditional Details for Building, Restoration, Renovation, and Rehabilitation, edited by John Belle, John Ray Hoke Jr. and Stephen Kliment, (c1991, 1998 John Wiley & Sons) is a compilation of architectural details from the 1932-1951 editions of Architectural Graphic Standards. What this long-winded description implies is that at one time, at least, there were very specific and proper details on how to build and install everything from walkways, windows, framing, fireplaces and chimneys, roofing and gutters, among other things. This book is great reading just to see “how things were done” at one point.

Whether the gutters were to be built in, made of wood or metal, there are charts and cross-sections detailing everything from size to pitch. There is even a chart for various cities around the United States that give “Rainfall Data and Drainage Factors.” One had to calculate the area of the roof to be drained, the pitch of the roof, and the amount of rainfall to be carried away to properly size the gutters and their leaders (or downspouts).

If one hired an architect during the first part of the 20th century then chances are he or she would use at least some of these details in designing not only the roof structure but the gutter system as well.

Needless to say, times have changed. Most new houses have the basic aluminum 5-inch “K” gutter and matching rectangular downspouts. Aluminum gutters can be made on the spot out of coiled aluminum stock in various colors. Many older homes such as yours have had these gutters installed when the roof is replaced and if the original gutters are discarded. Copper and galvanized gutters are still available, but most builders do not want the added expense of using them.

Gutters should be pitched slightly toward their downspouts. However, some builders do not do so since a gutter tilted to one side or the other may not have the same curb appeal of one that is level and not pitched. This may apply to roofing contractors and their gutter installers too. So, my first question to you is are the gutters pitched correctly?

Next on the list is number of downspouts. The more downspouts that are installed, the greater the cost.

Therefore, some contractors use only one on a length of gutter where two downspouts (one at each end) may be more appropriate. Too few downspouts will tend to make the gutters overflow during a heavy rain.

Next is the size of the gutter itself. A 5-inch gutter is typical, but 6-inch gutters are also available. Depending upon the amount of roof surface to be drained, a larger gutter may be in order. In either case, the gutter should be installed so that the leading edge of the roof drains into the gutter and not over it or behind it. The drip-edge flashing at the edge of the roof may have to be adjusted so that water does not flow between the gutter and the fascia board to which most are attached.

To attach the gutters to the fascia, I much prefer gutter hangers that are screwed to the fascia board as opposed to using long nails (or spikes as they are called). The spikes can become loose over time.

In cases where there is no flat fascia to which you can attach the gutter, a hung, half-round gutter is more appropriate. These are now available in aluminum and also are appropriate for eaves with molding at the fascia. Gutter support straps should always be secured in place under the shingles and not on top of them.

Gutters should always be installed with the front edge below the plane of the roof line. That way, if snow or ice slides off the roof, it will not get caught on the gutter or, in worst cases, rip the gutter off the house.

As to your question, I don’t think your problems are too serious.

I’d contact a few reputable general contractors and ask them for a gutter contractor or two whom they trust.

In the meantime, check to see if water runs behind the gutter or simply over the front. If it is the latter, I suspect that you may need an additional downspout and/or a larger gutter.